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Niacinamide 5% vs 10%: how much do you actually need?

2 min read

Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is sold at 2%, 5%, 10% and even 20%. Higher numbers look better on a label, but
they aren’t what most of the research used.

What niacinamide does

Niacinamide is a well-tolerated vitamin that supports the skin barrier, helps skin feel less oily and helps
even out the look of skin tone. It is one of the few actives that most skin types can use morning and
night.

What concentration the studies used

The best-known studies used 5% or lower:

  • In a split-face study, 5% niacinamide applied twice daily for 12 weeks improved the appearance of fine
    lines, blotchiness, yellowing and skin elasticity compared with the control side (Bissett et al., 2005).
  • Laboratory and clinical work on uneven-looking tone used 2%–5% niacinamide and found it reduced the
    transfer of pigment to surface skin cells, with a lighter look over weeks of use (Hakozaki et al., 2002).

None of that means 10% can’t help. It means the evidence that 10% does more than 5% is thin, while the
chance of redness or a tingling feeling goes up with concentration, especially in sensitive skin.

How to choose

  • New to niacinamide, sensitive or dry skin: start at 5% or below, in a moisturizer or gel.
  • Oily skin that tolerates actives well: 10% is fine if you like it, but it isn’t required.
  • Layering several actives: keep niacinamide at the lower end, since everything adds up.

Our Niacinamide Gel Moisturizer
uses 5%, the level most of the research is based on, in a light gel that doubles as your moisturizer.

Can you mix niacinamide with vitamin C?

Yes. The old warning came from lab studies with pure ingredients at high heat, not from modern skincare.
If your skin flushes when you layer them, use vitamin C in the morning and niacinamide at night.

Sources

  • Bissett DL, Oblong JE, Berge CA. Niacinamide: a B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance.
    Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):860–865.
  • Hakozaki T, Minwalla L, Zhuang J, et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and
    suppression of melanosome transfer. Br J Dermatol. 2002;147(1):20–31.

Cosmetic information, not medical advice. Patch test new products.