Reference

Ingredient encyclopedia

Every active we use, what it does, and which products contain it. Entries are written in plain language, and where the evidence for an ingredient is mixed or still developing, this says so rather than rounding up.

Nothing here is medical advice. These are cosmetic ingredients, described for people choosing skincare.

C

Caffeine

Applied topically, caffeine has a temporary tightening effect and influences the appearance of fluid accumulation near the skin surface. It is one of…

H

Hyaluronic Acid

A humectant, meaning it attracts and binds water. Applied to damp skin and sealed with something occlusive on top, it helps skin hold moisture and loo…

Also
HA, hyaluronan

N

Niacinamide

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 used widely in skincare as a general-purpose conditioning ingredient. It supports the skin barrier — the outer lay…

Also
Vitamin B3, nicotinamide

P

Peptides

Peptides are short chains of amino acids, the same building blocks that make up the proteins in skin. In cosmetics they are used to support skin feel,…

Also
Signal peptides, matrikines

Prebiotics

Prebiotics are intended to support the microorganisms that already live on skin, rather than adding new ones. The usual analogy is fertiliser rather t…

Also
Microbiome-supporting ingredients

R

Retinol

A vitamin A derivative that influences the rate at which skin cells turn over. It has the longest research history of any over-the-counter ingredient…

Also
Vitamin A, retinoid

S

Salicylic Acid

Salicylic acid is an oil-soluble exfoliating acid. Because it can move through sebum, it is used to help clear pores rather than only working on the s…

Also
BHA, beta hydroxy acid

T

Tea Tree Oil

An essential oil derived from the Australian tea tree, traditionally used on blemish-prone skin. In cosmetics it is typically included at low concentr…

Also
Melaleuca oil